Tourism
commissions exist to paint sexy pictures of whatever piece of real estate they
promote. Travelers to the Bahamas were
once told that “It’s Better in the Bahamas,” and they continued to be told that
despite nobody ever finding the “it.” Travelers
headed to Puerto Rico were told it was the “Continent of Puerto Rico” and if
you continued on a bit further southeast to Dominica you were told it was the “Nature
Island of the Caribbean.”
Marketing
of multifaceted Mexico has followed many twists and turns. Sun worshipers see a flood of commercials
showing idyllic beaches and people plunging off rocky cliffs into the
aquamarine sea. For Americans on the
West Coast, the tourist commission pushed glitzy places like Acapulco
and Puerto Vallarta
and Cabo. People on the East Coast are
lured with visions of the green Caribbean waters off Cancun and Cozumel. “Adventure” travelers saw advertisements for
trips to rugged Copper Canyon, while those with an interest in archeology
and anthropology saw advertisements for the ruins at Monte
Alban, Palenque, and Uxmal. Mexico’s tourist advertisements worked
wonderfully, and tourism was soon one of the most important parts of Mexico’s
diverse economy.
Travelers to Jamaica were first lured by
pictures of smiling faces and friendly people under the banner of “Make It Jamaica.” After enough people had tried to make it in Jamaica, and
learned that the only smiling happy people were the two in the advertisement
pictures, the tourist commission came up with “Make It Jamaica, Again.” They hoped someone might.
An Air Jamaica (now an extinct airline) Airbus 300
deposited me in Montego Bay on my first trip to the island in May 1990. Long-time friend and fellow biologist Jon
Andrew and I had come to Jamaica for a week of bird watching. Jamaica has the distinction of being home to
28 species of birds that are endemic to the island. An endemic is one that exists nowhere else on
earth. That number is the largest number
of endemic birds of any island nation in the West Indies. We were hoping to find them all.
Walking out of the air conditioned comfort of Sangster
International Airport into the heavily humid night air of Jamaica we were
immediately hit on by hustlers. One guy
wanted to sell me some ganja and another was selling cocaine. A third said he wanted to sell me his younger
sister adding “she’s a virgin,” which after looking at her I found very
difficult to believe. All of these
scammers were waiting just outside of the arrivals door and more of them
approached us as we walked to our rental car and then stopped nearby to
purchase gas.
Jon and I spent a week near Discovery Bay and went on daily
forays into the countryside from there searching for birds. One day we drove to the Blue Mountains above
Kingston where, in a flash, I learned that leaving your window down after
parking the car was a mistake because someone came by on a motorcycle and stole
my tape recorder from the front seat.
Another day we drove into the Cockpit County to look for birds at
Windsor Caves National Park. Enroute we passed through the little village of
Kinloss. As we made our way through town
we were verbally accosted and told to “get the fuck out of here honky.” Rocks were thrown at us and knives pulled out
from hip holsters and one welcoming man pointed a pistol (I assumed it was
loaded) at us as we raced out of town. Shouted
voices behind us were telling us to never come back.
Sugarbelly, the drug-addled manager of Windsor Caves
National Park said, after we told him about the experience in Kinloss, “When
tourists leave the tourist prisons they find a whole other Jamaica they didn’t
know existed.” The “tourist prisons”
Sugarbelly mentioned are the resort hotels that line the beaches on much of
Jamaica’s coast.
Our time in Jamaica was well spent and at the end of the
week we had seen 27 of the 28 endemic bird species. I had hoped to find them all so I never had
to return to this island but Jamaican Owl remained in hiding and that meant I
had to return some day.
The endemic Jamaican owl was the sole reason I returned to Jamaica a second time. Image downloaded from Wikipedia with no attribution to who took the image
As part of a training program I was in I spent the spring
and summer of 1992 on loan to the Florida Keys National Wildlife Refuges where
I lived on Big Pine Key. For some
unexplained reason American Airlines and its American Eagle subsidiary had a
ridiculously cheap airfare from Marathon and Key West via Miami to Montego Bay
over the Memorial Day weekend . It was
one of those airfares that were too cheap to stay home and I still needed to
see Jamaican Owl so against my better judgment I went back to Jamaica.
Seeing a Jamaican Owl is simplest at Windsor Caves
National Park and to get there I had to pass through Kinloss again. This time I did so at 4:00 a.m. when everyone
was still stoned and asleep and nobody bothered me. Unfortunately they were all
awake and lining the streets of Kinloss at 9:00 a.m. when I passed through town
again and although I saw no guns or knives a rock bounced off my windshield
after someone yelled “You fucking honky. Get out of here!”
I had followed the Jamaican Tourism Commission’s slogan
and not only made it Jamaica once I also made it Jamaica again. Having seen the Jamaican Owl on the second
trip I now happily had no other reason to return there.
However in ensuing years I did return there and I did so
for various reasons. Most surprisingly
(and refreshingly) each time I have returned to Jamaica I have not experienced
any of the anger and hostility that greeted me on my first two visits more than
20 years ago. Now when I go there people
treat me like I am someone they have known for years and they make me feel
welcome.
Twenty-five years ago my arrival in Jamaica was greeted with guns and rocks and offers to buy virgin sisters. Now tourists are greeted with raggae and soca music
In 2006 I flew to Montego Bay to work on my Jamaica bird
list and in 2008 I flew to Kingston for a weekend solely to look for shorebirds
in the lagoons on that side of the island.
In 2012 I spent a week there drinking beer at Jimmy Buffett’s
Margaritaville Cafes that stretch from Ocho Rios to Negril. Everyone everywhere
on the island was happy to see me and made me feel welcomed. On a hunch I drove through Kinloss one
afternoon and was shocked to see little Jamaican kids waving at me as I drove
through, many of them saying “Hello, mon” as I passed by. Not a single knife, gun or rock was in
evidence that day. Just smiling Jamaican
faces. On each of these trips to both
Kingston and Montego Bay I was not approached by a single hustler. Nobody
wanted to sell me ganja and nobody offered me their virgin sister. Instead I was asked “Need any help finding
your way to the rental car, mon?”
I made two quick trips to Jamaica in 2013; one was a
flight to Montego Bay and two weeks later the second trip saw my arrival in
Montego Bay on a cruise ship. On both
trips this year I was treated like I was someone who was welcomed by the
Jamaicans. Sailing out of Montego Bay
harbor a week ago I actually felt sad that I had to leave the island so soon
after arriving. A taxi driver in Montego
Bay asked me how many times I had been to Jamaica and when I told him this was
my seventh trip he smiled and said, “Three more trips mon and you’re no longer
an American.” I asked what I would be
after 10 trips and he said, “After 10 trips you’re a Jamerican, mon.” Twenty five years ago I was the enemy and now
I’m three trips short of being a Jamaican-American.
I don’t know what has changed in Jamaica but whatever it
is it has been for the good. My second
trip there, the one in 1992, I remember talking with a Jamaican man in a bar in
Falmouth who, after we each had downed our daily limit of Red Stripe beer, told
me that he hated me “because you’re white, mon.” Hate was a very strong word but that was the
word he used. When I asked why he said “because
you were a slave owner, mon.”
I was? That was
news to me. I told my Jamaican drinking
buddy that slavery was abolished in the United States in 1863, a mere 88 years
before I was even a glint in my father’s testosterone soaked eye. I also said that in 1863 my ancestors were 20
years shy of moving from Norway where, at the time, they were mostly interested
in figuring out how to catch more cod in the North Atlantic Ocean.
“Doesn’t matter, mon,” my drinking buddy told me. “You’re white so you’re guilty and that’s all
I have to say about it.”
Perhaps it’s a matter of Jamaican’s realizing that their
economy is highly dependent on tourism and tourism dollars and if tourists are
having rocks thrown at them it’s not really good for the country. Another thing that I like to think is
contributing is the excellent movie Cool
Runnings a story about the 1988 Jamaican bobsled team that came within a
loose bolt of winning a medal at the Winter Olympics in Calgary. The movie and the actors portrayal of
Jamaicans was so unlike what I had experienced on my first two trips. Yet after the movie came out who among us
couldn’t like Jamaicans? The entire
world had become a fan of the Jamaican bobsled team and in fact I’m still their
fan today.
I often wonder how much the excellent movie Cool Runnings has had to do with the tectonic shift in the outlook of Jamaicas toward visitors
I think the movie not only gave Americans the chance to
see Jamaican’s for who they really are.
It also gave Jamaicans the chance to see that we tourists aren’t the
marauding bastards they had been led to believe by years and years of anger and
mistrust. Even more so it gave Jamaicans
a reason to be intensely proud of being Jamaican. Maybe that had been lacking before.
Its pure speculation about the movie and I have no way of
knowing if I’m even close to being correct about its effects on Jamaicans and
Americans about each other. Maybe the
change in attitude and outlook has nothing at all to do with it. However its
seems more than a tad coincidental that just a few years after Cool Runnings was released, Jamaicans
started to make me and other Americans feel welcome.
A tranquil afternoon on tranquil Montego Bay
I became horribly lost along the north coast during my
November 2013 trip to Montego Bay and to Falmouth. Totally befuddled I stopped a Jamaican man at
an intersection with the North Coast highway and told him I had no idea how to
find my guesthouse in the hills above Falmouth.
“No problem, mon,” he began, “do you have their phone number? I’ll call
them for you and tell them I’m bringing you there.”
Handing him the phone number he called, talked to the
guesthouse owner and then said, “Follow me mon, I’ll take you there.” Taking off in the gathering dusk I followed
my guide up into the hills and through the winding roads to the entrance of my
guesthouse (I would have never found it in the dark). Stepping from my car and shaking his hand
while thanking him profusely, my Jamaican guide said, “No problem, mon. It was a pleasure you know. Americans are important to us in Jamaica and
we want you safe and happy while you’re here.”
Whatever it is that has changed in Jamaica it’s a good
thing and now I can’t wait to get back. Actually
I can’t wait to get back there three more times so I can tell all my friends
that I’m now Jamerican. I wonder what a Jamerican passport looks like?