Galapagos
March 18 – 25,
2022
The original plan for early 2022 was a cruise aboard
Norwegian Cruise Line from Buenos Aires, Argentina to Antarctica with a few
intermediate stops. The cruise was paid in full and so were the non-refundable
Business Class tickets on American Airlines from Sarasota to Buenos Aires. At
the last minute, COVID-19 headed its ugly rear just two weeks before departure
and Norwegian cancelled the cruise. Those funds were refunded but not the money
paid to American Airlines. With more than $3,000 in flight credits available we
looked for an alternative destination.
Doing a Google search on the words “Cheap Galapagos
cruises” we were directed to the Golandrina 1, a 72 foot “yacht” that sleeps sixteen
passengers. Many Galapagos cruises were in the $700 to $1000 per day per person
range. The Golandrina was $326 per person per day. We booked the boat, then
bought tickets to Guayaquil, Ecuador on American Airlines and Guayaquil to
Baltra island in the Galapagos on LATAM Airlines and waited anxiously for
departure day.
The Cruise
When Charles Darwin arrived in the Galapagos for his
5-week sojourn he found an evolving environment that was as it had been since
the formation of the islands by volcanic activity. With very few exceptions the
islands are today as they were when Darwin sailed among them.
Our Galapagos adventure began on March 18, 2022, when we
landed at Baltra Island aboard a LATAM Airlines Airbus 319 neo after a 90-minute
flight from hot and steamy Guayaquil. We quickly discovered that although this
was the “wet” season there is absolutely nothing wet about the Galapagos. Daily
temperatures were in the low 90s with humidity at a corresponding number. If
the Christians are correct and there is a hell, its going to be on the islands
of the Galapagos!
From the airport we were transported in a bus to the
yacht terminal where we boarded the dilapidated Golandrina 1 (more on this
“luxury” yacht later). As we pulled out of the harbor we were treated to a very
flavorful lunch as the captain led us to Bachas Beach on the north coast of Santa
Cruz Island. Spending several hours here we departed overnight for the 7-hour
crossing to Genovesa Island.
Day 2 was spent exploring Genovesa and adjoining Darwin
Bay. Day 3 began on Bartolome with the afternoon on Santiago Island. Day 4
found us exploring a large maternity area for Galapagos Sea Lions on South
Plazas Island, then later we explored Santa Fe Island. Day 5 was on and around
San Cristobal with an afternoon excursion on a massively rocky trail on Lobos
Island. We greeted sunrise on Day 6 in a bay on Espanola Island. Day 7 began on
Floreana Island followed by a 4-hour crossing to Puerto Aroyo on Santa Cruz
Island where we visited the Charles Darwin Research Station. Day 8 began with a
short excursion to North Seymour Island followed by a return to the yacht
harbor by 7:30 a.m. and a transfer to the Baltra airport by 8:30 a.m.
The “Yacht”
The Golandrina 1 was not a luxury yacht by any stretch of
the imagination! Each “stateroom” was about 48 to 50 square feet with bunk
beds. There was no room to turn around let alone store luggage! The en suite
bathroom contained a shower that operated like a garden hose not like an actual
shower. We paid extra for a “superior” cabin, and we are still trying to figure
out what was superior about the cabin! Adding insult to misery there was no air
conditioning the first two days and nights. Then when it was finally fixed the captain
controlled the in-room air conditioning and turned it on and more often off at
his discretion.
The Golandrina
1
General Observations and Suggestions
Any biologist worth his or her salt needs to visit the
Galapagos where evolution is not a theory but an ongoing conspicuous process. Visiting
the islands can be blindingly expensive if you choose a high-end boat operated
by a high-end company. You can easily spend $1000 per person per day but all
the companies have similar itineraries. Thus, if you are rich and want to see
as many endemics as possible, go with a Lindblad Explorer or National
Geographic group and pay excessively for comfort. However, you will see the
same species as if you went aboard the Golandrina 1 and were subjected to forty-eight
square feet of space, half of which was occupied by bunk beds.
The Golandrina would be a perfect boat to charter if you
can get fifteen participants to cover the cost of one trip leader. Birdwatchers
and ornithologists can put up with a lot and come away smiling and they
certainly would on this boat and for a fraction of the cost of other boats.
I have already been asked if I would do the trip again. Yes
and no. I would go back but not until after the COVID-19 nonsense has settled
down. In the Guayaquil airport 4 hours before our departure, we were informed
that the US government (CDC) requires a negative COVID test before entering the
United States. The only lab in the airport that can give the test did not open
until 30 minutes after our flight left so we rebooked for a middle of the night
flight, got our negative test results, and waited endlessly for the time to
arrive when we could escape and return home. The irony of the CDC requirement
about a test is that we were traveling to Florida which has no restrictions on
anything related to COVID. To make matters more annoying, nobody in Customs or
Immigration asked to see the lab test results when we arrived in Miami!
When traveling to the islands is sane again, I will go
back. Until then there are other places to visit.
The Birds
The Galapagos bird list includes 154 species of which twenty-nine
species are endemic to the islands. My hard-fought (and hard-sweated) list
includes 63 species seen of which 28 were new to my world list and among them
were 25 endemic species. The Galapagos Species Checklist project is an
excellent source of information on all wildlife occurring in the Galapagos. https://www.darwinfoundation.org/en/datazone/checklist
White-cheeked Pintail (Endemic
subspecies) - White-cheeked
pintail was regular whenever we found brackish wetlands.
American Flamingo - We watched a pair in a brackish
wetland near the north shore of Santa Cruz Island. Our naturalist/guide said
they are widely distributed throughout the Galapagos wherever brackish wetlands
occur.
Galapagos Dove (Endemic species) - My first Galapagos bird. A pair greeted
us as we walked to the terminal on Baltra after exiting the LATAM flight from
Guayaquil. As we waited for other travelers to arrive, we watched more of them
under the shade of the waiting area at the airport. Throughout the trip we
found Galapagos Dove on every island visited.
Smooth-billed Ani - An introduced species in the Galapagos.
Our first one was on Santa Cruz Island. We found a displaying pair on Floreana.
Dark-billed Cuckoo - One bird on Isla Santiago was the
only one seen during the trip. I was surprised by this being the only one
observed.
Black-necked Stilt - Regular wherever brackish wetlands occurred.
Semipalmated Plover - A single bird foraging on the edge of
a brackish wetland on Santa Cruz Island was the only one observed.
Whimbrel - One vociferous individual foraging
on the edge of a brackish wetland on Santa Cruz Island and three in similar
habitat on Floreana.
Ruddy Turnstone - The standard rocky shoreline bird. I
think I have seen Ruddy Turnstone in every country from Mexico south to
southern Argentina except for Bolivia and Paraguay that do not have rocky ocean
shores.
Surfbird – I was surprised to find one near
Prince Phillip’s Steps on Genovesa.
Least Sandpiper – The only peep identified during the
entire trip. Each individual observed was foraging along the shore of brackish
wetlands.
Red-necked Phalarope - Astonishingly common in large rafts
over open ocean water everywhere we traveled during daylight hours. The minimal estimate was at least
20,000 of them seen throughout the trip. As each flock erupted from the surface
of the ocean, I asked myself if I would be counting any of them at Barrow,
Alaska, when I do my bird censuses there in June.
Red Phalarope – Not as numerous as Red-necked
Phalarope but still common over deep waters we traversed during daylight hours.
Like with Red-necked Phalarope I wonder how many of the individuals I saw in
the Galapagos will be on my bird census route at Barrow, Alaska, in a few
months.
Wandering Tattler – Reported by our naturalist/guide to
be regular in winter, we saw three individuals on three islands.
Lesser Yellowlegs – I was surprised to find only one
bird during the entire trip.
Pomarine Jaeger – The book on the birds of the
Galapagos mentions the paucity of records from the Galapagos and found that
unusual because the islands are near the principal wintering area for this
species offshore from South America. I found one at sea while underway toward San
Cristobal Island.
Swallow-tailed Gull – The sea cliffs of Genovesa island
were littered with numerous breeding pairs of this stunningly beautiful gull. We
encountered them at several locations in the Galapagos and always where there
were steep cliffs. Their nesting habitat use seems similar to Black-legged
Kittiwake in the northern hemisphere. I had seen this species previously along
the shore of Ecuador near Mantes but that was a single individual. Here in the Galapagos,
we saw several thousand of them. I think only breeding plumaged Ross’s Gulls
are more beautiful than Swallow-tailed Gull.
Franklin's Gull – Three birds at sea near Espanola
Island. Franklin’s gull spends the winter in vast numbers along the shore of
Peru and Chile. The book says they are regular migrants in the Galapagos. It
was strange looking at these birds over open ocean knowing that in two months
they will be nesting on prairie wetlands in the Dakotas and Minnesota.
Lava Gull (Endemic species) – Not as numerous as Swallow-tailed
Gull but seen regularly throughout the islands. Most individuals were found in
rocky shoreline habitat.
Brown Noddy (Endemic subspecies) – Regularly observed over open water
throughout the Galapagos.
Red-billed Tropicbird – Surprisingly numerous as a nesting
bird especially on Genovesa Island. We found one nest with a nearly fledged
young bird on a flat area on the top of the island. All others were along the
steep cliff faces.
Galapagos Penguin (Endemic species) – The five birds we found on Isla
Bartolome were the only penguins seen on the trip. Their numbers fluctuate
widely based on the availability of prey items; numbers are knocked back during
El Nino years. This penguin looks similar to the more abundant and widespread
Magellanic Penguin that was no doubt the Galapagos Penguin’s ancestral species.
Waved Albatross – The entire world population of Waved
Albatross (about 12,000 pairs) nests on Espanola Island. After fledging the
young birds spend about 5 years over open ocean before returning to the island
to nest. That return begins in late March with nesting underway between May and
January. There were no birds on the nesting area when we visited it. I found
one individual at sea (likely a juvenile) near North Seymour Island and another
during the run from Floreana to Santa Cruz Island.
Elliot’s Storm-Petrel – Numerous and widely distributed at
sea throughout the Galapagos, even found foraging in the harbor at Puerto Aroyo
on Santa Cruz.
Band-rumped Storm-Petrel – Two individuals over deep water
between Santa Fe and San Cristobal Islands were the only individuals observed.
I always have considered this an Atlantic Ocean bird so finding one on the
Pacific was a treat.
Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel – Regular and widespread at sea
throughout the Galapagos. We visited a nesting colony on Genovesa Island that
supports at least 5,000 breeding pairs. We watched the spectacle of them
displaying over land and many people on the trip asked if they were some
species of swallow.
[Unknown Storm-Petrel] – On March 20,
2022, I saw a storm-petrel from shore on Bartolome Island that resembled a
Ringed Strom-Petrel much more than a White-faced Storm-Petrel. I have seen
Ringed offshore from Peru and Chile, and White-faced in several locations on
both sides of the Atlantic Ocean. Geography suggests this was a Ringed, but
there are no records of the species in the Galapagos. There are records of
White-faced from the islands, but it seems strange to have this species in the
Pacific. I wish I could have had a better and longer look but I was not that
lucky. It knows what species it is even though I never will.
Galapagos Petrel – Depending on which taxonomist you
listen to, this is either a full species separate from Dark-rumped Petrel in
Hawaii, or the Hawaii form is a subspecies of Galapagos Petrel. I have seen the
Hawaii form at sea offshore from Kauai and it appears indistinguishable from
the one individual I found at sea between Floreana and Santa Cruz. If the two
forms are split, then I have another arm-chair life bird waiting to be elevated
to countable status.
Galapagos Shearwater – Formerly considered a subspecies of
the widely-distributed Audubon’s Shearwater, Galapagos Shearwater occurs in exceptionally
large numbers at sea and in harbors around every island. It is safe to say that
if you go to the Galapagos Islands and do not see this shearwater then you
never left your cabin or did you look at the ocean!
Magnificent Frigatebird – Widely distributed throughout the
Galapagos.
Great Frigatebird – Slightly more numerous than the
Magnificent Frigatebird. On Genovesa Island we walked among nesting Great
Frigatebirds as close as two feet from us. There it was a major treat watching
males inflate their bright red “balloon” as they tried to attract a mate.
Nazca Booby – How strange is it to be walking down
a trail on Genovesa Island and have a juvenile Nazca Booby reach out and peck
your foot with the tip of its bill? This, the largest booby in the Galapagos,
is widely distributed as a nesting species occurring on every island we
visited.
Blue-footed Booby – The quintessential Galapagos bird. We
were able to see males trying to attract a female by “dancing” their blue feet
while whistling. It was a comical sight. Every t shirt shop in Puerto Aroyo and
in the Baltra airport has t shirts with two blue feet on the front and the
words “I Love Boobies – Galapagos” written across the front. I was tempted to
buy a shirt but figured someone in the United States would be offended and sue
me for harassment.
Red-footed Booby – The smallest of the boobies in the
Galapagos we found numerous active nests, with adults incubating eggs, on
Genovesa Island. Red-footed Booby was also regularly encountered at sea. To
avoid competition with the larger Nazca and Blue-footed Boobies, the Red-footed
spends most of its foraging time far from shore over deeper waters than the
other boobies prefer to forage in.
Flightless Cormorant (Endemic species) – I was
surprised beyond imagination to find a single bird perched on a rocky shoreline
of Santa Cruz Island. The book on Galapagos birds says that this unique
cormorant occurs only on Fernandina and Isabella islands, neither of which we
visited. But it is difficult if not impossible to misidentify a cormorant with
wings one-third the length of any other cormorant. This is especially true in
an area that has only one cormorant species. Regardless of the explanation this
was a real treat to see especially since we were not traveling to the two
islands where it is known to occur.
Brown Pelican – Regularly seen in the near-shore
environment throughout the islands. Never over deep open water.
Great Blue Heron – Seen regularly and always as single
individuals on several islands.
Cattle Egret – We saw flocks of up to ten
individuals in Puerto Aroyo as we walked from the public dock to the Charles
Darwin Research Center and return. This was the only location we found this
species in the islands.
Striated (Lava) Heron (Endemic
subspecies) – The
distinctly marked and obvious “Lava Heron” subspecies was found along the rocky
shore of at least five islands between Santa Cruz and Espanola. We only saw
solitary birds.
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron (Endemic
subspecies) – We
observed an adult incubating eggs in a nest built in a crevice adjacent to the
Prince Phillip Stairs on Genovesa
Galapagos Hawk (Endemic species). My first one was seen soaring with
two Magnificent Frigatebirds on the north shore of Santa Cruz Island. Later we
found other solitary birds on South Plaza, Santa Fe, San Cristobal, Espanola
and Floreana. We were greeted by one perched above a group of Galapagos Sea
Lions at the landing location on Espanola.
Brujo Flycatcher (Endemic species) – Brujo Flycatcher was recently split
from the widely-distributed Vermillion Flycatcher. Before the split it was
known by some taxonomists as “Galapagos Vermillion Flycatcher.” Despite being distributed across most of the
islands we found only a solitary bird on San Cristobal Island.
Galapagos Flycatcher (Endemic species) – A pair that appeared to contain an
enthusiastically displaying male and a female who was looking for better
options, was found in some Palo Santo trees on Bartolome. Galapagos Flycatcher
occurs on all islands except Darwin, Genovesa, and Wolf. Despite its wide
distribution we only encountered this single pair on one island. They are
reported to be “common” in lowlands of all the islands, but you cannot prove
that by me.
Galapagos Martin (Endemic species) – We found one individual near the peak
of the “Pinnacle” on Bartolome. Another was heard and seen on San Cristobal.
Barn Swallow – Is there any place in the western
hemisphere that this species does not occur? We found three obvious migrants on
Espanola Island and a single bird flying over open water of nearby Gardner Bay.
I have seen Barn Swallow as far south as Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego in
Argentina. Seeing these four birds made me wonder where they had spent the
winter and more importantly on the side of whose house in the United States or
Canada they will be nesting in a few weeks.
Galapagos Mockingbird (Endemic species)
– Common, conspicuous,
and noisily obvious like its Northern Mockingbird cousin. The subspecies bauri
was found on Genovesa. Subspecies barringtoni was found on Santa Fe.
Subspecies parvulus was found on Santa Cruz and Baltra. Subspecies personatus
was found on Santiago. Each subspecies was distinctly plumaged, and each had
conspicuously different call notes and different songs (especially their
cadence). With advances in molecular genetics applied to avian taxonomy I would
not be surprised if some time soon each subspecies in the Galapagos was
elevated to species status.
Española Mockingbird (Endemic species) – Obnoxiously bold and conspicuous on
Espanola from the moment we came ashore at both Suarez Point and the beach at Gardner
Bay. Although National Park regulations forbid feeding wildlife its ok to kill
flies and feed them to the Espanola Mockingbirds who eagerly await the sound of
the next slap on human skin.
San Cristobal Mockingbird (Endemic
species) – One
individual near the shore on Lobos Island near San Cristobal was the only one
we found.
Yellow Warbler (Endemic subspecies) – A conspicuous bird in habitats
adjacent to the ocean especially in mangroves on Floreana. Although the
behavior of this subspecies is similar to the more widely distributed
subspecies in North America and the West Indies, its song is distinctly
different. It retains the “sweet, sweet, I’m so sweet” song but with a markedly
different cadence. Given its geographic isolation I am surprised the Yellow
Warbler in the Galapagos has not already been elevated to species status.
DARWIN’S FAMOUS FINCHES
Green Warbler-Finch (Endemic species) –
Conspicuous on both
Santiago and Santa Cruz. When Charles Darwin collected one in 1835, he thought
it was a species of wren. Uncle Chuck made a big mistake in his identification.
Gray Warbler-Finch (Endemic species) – We found the subspecies mentalis
on Genovesa, bifasciata on Santa Fé, cinerascens on Española, luteola
on San Cristóbal, and ridgwayi on Floreana. Gray Warbler-Finch is found
mostly in the shrubland and dry forest of smaller drier islands. Each
subspecies has plumage coloration suitable for their habitat.
Vegetarian Finch (Endemic species) – A conspicuous finch in the lowlands of
Santiago, San Cristobal, Santa Cruz, and Floreana.
Woodpecker Finch (Endemic species) – We found this finch commonly on Santa
Cruz, Santiago, and San Cristobal. Unique among passerines, the Woodpecker
Finch has adapted to be able to use “tools” like small sticks with which they
extract insects and insect larvae from the bark of trees. Sadly, we did not
witness this behavior.
Large Tree-Finch (Endemic species) – The largest and heaviest of Darwin’s
finches, we found this species on Santa Fe, Santiago, San Cristobal and
Floreana.
Medium Tree-Finch (Endemic species) – Restricted to Floreana Island where we
saw a male displaying for a female. Given all the energy he exerted, I hope the
male got lucky.
Small Tree-Finch (Endemic species) – This, the smallest of Darwin’s tree
finches, was found regularly on Santa Cruz, Santiago, San Cristobal, Floreana,
Baltra, and Santa Fe.
Small Ground-Finch (Endemic species) – Very common in dry transitional zones
of which there is an abundance in the Galapagos. We found this species on every
island visited except Genovesa where it does not naturally occur.
Large Ground-Finch (Endemic species) – The massive and conspicuous bill is a
certain field mark for identifying this common species. We found it on all
islands visited except San Cristobal and Espanola
Genovesa Ground-Finch (Endemic species)
– Recently split from
the Sharp-beaked Ground-Finch, this species is endemic to Genovesa where it is
conspicuous and fairly common.
Sharp-beaked Ground-Finch (Endemic
species) – We found
two individuals on Santiago. We were lucky to find them.
Common Cactus-Finch (Endemic species) – Also known as “Small Cactus-Finch”
this species is widely distributed and common on most islands except Genovesa
and Espanola. On Floreana we watched an adult tear apart the flower of an Opuntia
cactus and feed it to a recently fledged juvenile that was begging vigorously
to be fed.
Medium Ground-Finch (Endemic species) –
Widely distributed on
all the islands we visited except for Genovesa.
Española Ground-Finch (Endemic species)
– Found within seconds
of landing on Espanola Island where it was surprisingly common in the lower
elevations of the island.
Genovesa Cactus-Finch (Endemic species)
– Common and
conspicuous in the scrubby vegetation we visited on Genovesa.
Major misses from the bird list that we did NOT see include:
Galapagos Rail – it occurs on several islands
visited but only sparingly and in higher elevation wet meadow habitat. We did
not visit its habitat on this trip
Floreana Mockingbird – Perhaps 150 individuals
remain on two small islets offshore from Floreana Island. Access to both islets
is highly restricted and there are severe penalties if you are on the islets
without a permit.
Mangrove Finch – Perhaps 150 individuals remain in
a few areas of mangrove forest on the west coast of Isabella Island. Our trip
did not take us to Isabella
Vampire Ground Finch – This bizarrely named
species is restricted to Darwin and Wolf islands in the far northwest corner of
the Galapagos. About the only boats that visit the range of this species are
scuba diving boats and we were not on a dive boat. This bird is most famous for
its unusual diet. When alternative sources are scarce the vampire finch
occasionally feeds by drinking the blood of other birds, chiefly the Nazca and blue-footed
boobies, pecking at their skin with their sharp beaks until blood is drawn.
Curiously, the boobies do not offer much resistance against this. It has been
theorized that this behavior evolved from the pecking behavior the finch used
to clean parasites from
the plumage of the booby. The finches also feed on eggs, stealing them
just after they are laid and rolling them (by pushing with their legs and using
their beak as a pivot) into rocks until they break.
The Mammals
I am not sure of the correct
taxonomic order of the mammals we observed.
Galapagos Sea Lion (Zalophus wollebaeki) –
Some taxonomists consider this a subspecies of the California Sea Lion. The
only excuse for not seeing a Galapagos Sea Lion in the islands is that you had
your eyes closed the entire time you were among the islands. One evening at
dinner we looked up to see a Sea Lion perched at the top of the stairs leading
to the dining area. When it was chased away it went up another flight of stairs
and entered our cabin. Looking around it decided it did not like what it saw
and heaved itself overboard. On Bartolome as I waited at the landing area for
the rest of the group a Sea Lion climbed up the steps to a flat area, then
turned to climb more toward me. Seeing me it stopped. I moved over on the steps
and told it I was not a danger. The Sea Lion then sneezed and laid down on the
steps for a nap.
Galapagos Fur Seal (Arctocephalaus galapagensis)
– The three individuals we saw hauled out on the rocks at Genovesa were the
only fur seals of the trip.
Bryde’s Whale (Balaenoptera brydei) – About
20 minutes after departing Floreana for Santa Cruz, one of the crew members
yelled “Ballena!! Off the port side of
the ship were two medium sized whales traveling at an angle toward the bow of
the boat. Based on field characteristics observed including two blow holes and
the smaller size I concluded this was Bryde’s Whale. Ironically, this species
is named after a Norwegian man who established a whaling station in South
Africa. This was a lifer mammal.
The Reptiles
I am not sure of the correct taxonomic order of the
reptiles observed.
Green (Sea) Turtle (Chelonia mydas ssp.
agassizi) – Common and conspicuous throughout the islands. The subspecies
occurring in the Galapagos is sometimes called the “Black Turtle.” Whether it is a valid species is anyone’s
guess.
Leatherback Turtle (Dermochelys coriacea)
Two of these enormous sea turtles were seen near shore on San Cristobal Island.
This was a lifer and the last of the world’s sea turtles for me.
Marine Iguana (Ambryrhynchus cristatus) –
One of the classic reptiles to see in the Galapagos, this is the only iguana in
the world that relies on marine environments and marine algae for its survival.
We saw the subspecies hassi on Santa Cruz, mertensi on San
Crisbotal and Santiago, nanus on Genovesa and venustissimus on
Espanola.
Land Iguana (Conolophus sublirstatus) -
Common and conspicuous on most large islands including several that enjoyed
sunbathing on the road to the yacht basin on Baltra.
Santa Fe Land Iguana (Conolophus pallidus)
– Sparsely distributed on Santa Fe.
Galapagos Lava Lizard (Microlophus
albemertensis) – Common and conspicuous on South Plaza, Santa Cruz, Santa
Fe, and Santiago.
Espanola Lava Lizard (Microlophus delanonsis)
– Easily found on Espanola.
Floreana Lava Lizard (Microlophus hobellii)
– We found two on Floreana.
San Cristobal Lava Lizard (Microlophus
bivattatus) – Restricted to San Cristobal where it is easy to find.
Galapagos Leaf-toed Gecko (Phyllodactylus
galapogensis) – Fairly common on Santa Cruz, Santiago, and Bartolome.
Baur’s Leaf-toed Gecko (Phyllrdactylus bauri)
– Restricted to Espanola
Santa Fe Leaf-toed Gecko (Phyllrdactylus
barringtonensis) – Restricted to Santa Fe.
Tuberculated Leaf-toed Gecko (Phyllrdactlus
tuberculosus) – Restricted to San Cristobal.
Major misses:
Galapagos (or Giant) Tortoise (Geochelone
elephantopus) – We did not explore any areas that were within the range of
this iconic Galapagos species. We visited a captive breeding facility at the
Charles Darwin Research Center on Santa Cruz where we saw many of them, but
these were not wild animals. After observing numerous adults at the breeding
center, I am now convinced that Steven Spielberg used the head and neck of the
Giant Tortoise as the model for E.T. the extraterrestrial.
