Wednesday, June 26, 2024

North to the Volcano Island

 


Friday, June 28, 2024, we leave the heat and humidity of South Florida behind and travel northeast to Iceland. First we fly on JetBlue Airlines new Airbus 220 from Sarasota to New York Kennedy.  There we transfer to venerable Icelandair for the 5-hour flight across Maritime Canada and Greenland to Iceland, arriving there about 6:00 a.m. local time on June 29.

 


A volcano has been active off and on near Grandvik and near the Keflevik airport since last October.  Currently it seems to be settling down. However on an island that seems to have more volcanoes than humans it pays to be alert.  Iceland sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge where the North American geological plate is sliding slowly under the European geological plate.  There is a place on the island where you can scuba dive and touch both continents at the same time.  It costs $900 USD for 2 tanks.  We aren't going to do those dives!

After spending a day recovering from no sleep on the flight from New York we board the Norwegian Star for a short 12-day trek across the North Atlantic to New York City. We visit three other ports in Iceland, two in Greenland, then St. John’s Newfoundland, Saint Pierre et Miquelon (the last outpost of France in North America), and Halifax Nova Scotia before arriving early on July 13 in New York.

 


This will be our fourth time on the Norwegian Star, a 965-foot-long behemoth that has been in the Norwegian fleet since 2001. In October 2015 we braved 40-foot seas on her as we traversed the North Sea enroute from Copenhagen, Denmark to Miami on a 14 days transatlantic repositioning cruise. In January 2023 we were on the Star again for Norwegian’s inaugural 14-day cruise from Buenos Aires, Argentina to Antarctica. We enjoyed the ice continent so much we returned there on the Star in February 2024. Now beginning on July 1, 2024, we are sailing over hopefully calm waters of the North Atlantic on our fourth and likely final time aboard the Star.

We pass just a few miles south of the Arctic Circle while along the north coast of Iceland. Although we are past the solstice and a little south of the Circle I have a feeling we will enjoy the Midnight Sun every night we are that far north.


 Tiny Qaqortoq is the fifth largest settlement in Greenland with only 3,000 residents

As with most cruises we aren’t shelling out an arm and a leg for many shore excursions. Instead we usually take off to explore on our own.  On this trip however, we spend a few hours in Qaqortoq, Greenland taking part in a “Taste of Greenland” excursion. The cruise website tells this about the excursion

 Heighten your appetite with a walk through Qaqortoq to sample Greenlandic and Inuit cuisine at a local restaurant. You’ll spend about 25 minutes along the immensely scenic route through the heart of South Greenland’s largest city – still a compact, charming place where gardens flourish, colorful historic homes line the streets and public artworks celebrate the region’s rich cultural history. But then, there’s no better way to get a true taste of a culture than by its food. The offerings at this excursion’s designated venue change frequently but typically include traditional Greenlandic and Inuit dishes featuring high-protein meats – a diet meant to sustain early locals through harsh, physically demanding winters. Greenlanders have been whalers for some 4,000 years, so look for a taste of that to be served – perhaps thinly sliced like carpaccio or quick-cooked like veal to seal in its flavor. Lamb is also popular here, raised naturally and allowed to range the upland pastures freely. Other traditional specialties might include dried seal, grilled Arctic char or smoked reindeer. Tasty local crowberries, which look like blueberries, are used liberally in sauces and desserts. No worries: you’ll burn off any excess calories on the walk back to the ship.

 

HIGHLIGHTS

• Enjoy a leisurely, scenic walk through Qaqortoq’s downtown – alive with color and charm.
• Visit a local restaurant specializing in traditional Greenlandic dishes made from regional ingredients.
• Enjoy a tasting likely to include whale meat along with dried seal, smoked reindeer, or free-range lamb.
• Discover the flavor of Greenland’s answer to blueberries: the crowberry.
• See a few more sights and shed a few calories on the pleasant walk back to the ship.

This should prove to be a welcomed change from onboard food for lunch that day. I’ve eaten whale blubber and seal meat at Barrow, Alaska. Fairbanks was he location of my first Arctic Char dinner, and the best caribou (called “reindeer” here) in the world is at Fast Eddy’s Restaurant in Tok, Alaska so Qaqortoq has a high bar to cross!  With luck there is a craft brewery in town which will be a nice surprise.

Departing Greenland, we pass through the Greenland Sea to Newfoundland, then visit Saint Pierre et Miquelon before a day at sea and a visit to Halifax. Although British Columbia has its spectacular mountains and northern Manitoba and Nunavut have extensive tundra, there is no part of Canada more beautiful than Nova Scotia. My second time in Halifax was in December 1989 while chasing after a rare bird. I slept in my car in a cemetery near downtown. This time I’ll be in a real bed in much more comfortable surroundings.

Opportunities for new birds for my life list are non-existent on this trip although I will probably add some new birds to my Iceland and Newfoundland lists. Plus get to begin a list for Greenland and for Saint Pierre et Miquelon. An Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross which would be new for my North America list, was found earlier this week in the Greenland Sea off Canada. Chances of it being anywhere near the path of our cruise are almost non-existent but you never know.

 
Following 12 days at sea we take  the AMTRAK Northeast Regional from Penn Station to Rhode Island to visit a friend of Cathy’s from childhood and his wife. One day there we take the ferry from Point Judith over to Block Island.  After Rhode Island we board AMTRAK again first to South Station in Boston (mentioned in a Jimmy Buffett song) then to Portland Maine. After a quick obligatory run up the side of Mount Washington in New Hampshire we will be attending the 10th anniversary celebration of Barreled Souls Brewing Company in Saco, Maine. We met Lori, the mother of the brewery owner, on our first trip to Antarctica and she invited us to Maine for the party. I’m particularly looking forward to a bottle or two of  “The Dude Abides,” a beer whose name will resonate with fans of the movie The Big Lebowski.

After 23 days on the road, we return to the heat and humidity of Florida just in time for the beginning of the peak of Hurricane Season!  Our return is on Delta Air Lines who has changed the itinerary and times 23 times since I made our reservations last December!

 

The Norwegian Encore will be our home away from home for 35 days from Seattle Washington to London England

Next up after this trek to the North Atlantic, we sail out of Seattle, Washington aboard the Norwegian Encore in mid-October on a 21-day journey via the Panama Canal to Miami. We did this cruise on the same ship in 2023 and enjoyed it so much we are doing it again. However this time when we arrive in Miami we are not stepping off the ship.  Instead, we stay on the Encore for 14 more days with stops in the Azores, mainland Portugal, France, and jolly Old England. 

The stop in France is at La Havre which holds some historic importance to me.  During World War II my dad guarded German prisoners of war at Camp Polk (now Fort Polk) near Alexandria, Louisiana.  Not long after the dust settled on D-Day 1944, my dad was sent on a ship to La Havre to pick up a load of more German prisoners of war and transport them back to Louisiana for the duration of the war.  My dad didn't talk too much about the experience (he was 100 percent Norwegian so its not surprising he didn't talk much) but I look forward to hanging out for a few hours in a French town he visited 80 years earlier.

The best part of ending in England is we get to fly Icelandair home from London Heathrow with a connection in Reykjavik before continuing on to the Mouse in Orlando. It’s not often we get to visit the Volcano island twice in the same year!




Thursday, May 30, 2024

Does the Sun Ever Shine in Juneau?



Juneau has the distinction of being the only state capital in the United States that cannot be reached by road. Alaska Airlines serves Juneau several times each day from either Anchorage, Ketchikan, Seattle, Sitka or Yakutat. Flying is the quickest way to visit this isolated city. Flying to Juneau may also be the most dangerous. Mountains on nearly all sides of Juneau add to its isolation and what makes it so dangerous to fly there. Final approach begins at nearly five thousand feet. Pilots maneuver skillfully between the precipices’ and hope that their instruments do not fail.  Even the slightest problem during an instrument approach is enough for a pilot to abort and go around for another attempt. The FAA’s rules for an aborted approach are also dangerous. Aborted flights have to make a steep turning climb out of Juneau. A steep turning climb between mountains.

There has been only one major fatal crash in Juneau despite all the dangers of flying there. An Alaska Airlines 727 augured into a mountain side during a tricky night time approach in the clouds.  This single fatal crash, despite all of the air traffic there, shows that pilots just do not take chances flying into Juneau.

My Alaska Airlines flight to Juneau originated in Seattle. The plane was half full, dinner was served quickly, after which the alcohol flowed freely. Sitting next to me was a commercial fishing captain from Juneau returning home from a business meeting in Seattle. He had moved with his family from San Diego, “in the Outside” fifteen years ago. He was making an awesome sum of money from fishing. I asked him how his wife liked living in Juneau.

Which one?” he laughed, as he slapped his right knee, “I’m on number four right now.”  Apparently wives are like recyclable aluminum in this part of Alaska.

“My first wife lasted two years and then went back to San Diego with our kids,” he said. “She liked the money and she liked the scenery, but the weather got to her.”  Between gulps of his beer he said, “She now has the best of both worlds; she doesn’t have to put up with the weather, and she still gets all the money. Ha!”  He slapped his knee again and gulped more beer.

He met wife number two on a beach in San Diego during a trip south to see his children. He described her as the quintessential southern California beach blonde. She was intrigued by Alaska and he invited her to come for a visit. She came in July when there is not much rain. She fell in love with the mountains and the glaciers, and the beauty. She also fell in love with him. They saw each other several more times that summer. He flew to San Diego in October and they were married. He brought her back to Juneau on Halloween day. Juneau was gray and wet and rainy in late October. It was not the place of warm summer sun. “She thought Juneau was like July all year long,” he told me. “She lasted until April and then left for the Outside.”

He met wife number three on a different San Diego beach while visiting his children two years later. Stories she had heard about the beauty and grandeur of Alaska had captivated her. She said she had always wanted to visit there but had never had the chance. They saw each other daily while he was in San Diego for a month. They married the day before his return north. Her first sight of Juneau came on Thanksgiving day after the plane circled the airport for ninety minutes waiting for a break in the clouds. They landed in a snowstorm with brisk crosswinds on November 25. Wife number three left for the Outside the following May.

Wife number four was a seat partner on an Alaska Airlines flight from Seattle to Juneau when she was coming north to work for the summer. They spent time together whenever he was not fishing. She was originally from Montana and was used to its harsh conditions. Yet after two years he could tell she was getting restless. The weather more than anything was getting to her. She was supposed to meet him at the airport when he arrived that night. Nobody answered the phone when he had called home the last two days and he now had a feeling that she may have left while he was in Seattle.

I asked why he didn’t find a woman from Juneau or a town nearby. If nothing else she should be used to the weather and the isolation. “Most of the women in Juneau are from somewhere else in Alaska. They’re only here to work for the government, sleep with some politician, and then they all leave too.”

We landed in Juneau at ten that night. His wife was not waiting for him at the gate. I walked with him to the baggage claim area. She was not there either. I walked outside with him to catch a taxi to my hotel and to take him home. Getting out of the taxi at my hotel, I asked if he was o.k.  He snickered and said, “oh well, fuck, I’ll just start over again.”

Three of my four days in Juneau were set aside to visit three different units of the National Park System: Glacier Bay National Park at Gustavus, Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Site in Skagway, and Sitka National Historic Site in Sitka. Each involved a morning flight out and an evening flight back. I chose to travel to Gustavus and Skagway first. Those trips required travel in light planes to small airports in an area renowned for gobbling up small planes in bad weather. Those two day-trips were pulled off flawlessly and gave me a historical and scenic overload.

During my third night in Juneau a tremendous wind began to blow about 9:00. It blew hard with driving rain all night. Rain cascaded down in bucketsful at dawn. The wind was relentless. Alaska Airlines’ 9:30 flight to Sitka arrived from Anchorage on time. I had reserved a flight to Sitka this morning where I would visit the National Historic Site and then catch the 5:15 p.m. return to Juneau. The wind and the rain did not subside while we waited for the inbound passengers to disembark. We boarded the flight and waited for departure. The departure time came and went. We sat at the gate and were rocked by forceful, relentless wind. Ten thirty came and went. We continued to be rocked by the wind. Finally, the pilot came on over the intercom to explain our predicament.

Something had happened to the plane’s navigation system when it landed in Juneau. The pilot was trying to fix the problem and needed to punch some precise numbers into the computer to make the navigation system work. With the low clouds and high mountains that surrounded Juneau there is no room for a navigational mistake. His problem and therefore our problem was the howling wind that kept rocking and shaking the plane. If it persisted, he could not recalibrate the computer.

The wind howled and the plane rocked and at 11:30 we pushed back from the gate. A loud applause went up. It died quickly as the pilot explained that we were merely moving to an area behind the terminal and away from the wind to reset the computer. We sat behind the terminal and the plane continued to rock and shake. They pulled the plane to within a few feet of the terminal and it continued to rock.

At one that afternoon, after sitting on a rocking plane for three and a half hours, the pilot announced that he was giving up. We were going to be pulled back to the terminal, offloaded, and there we would wait until the wind relented and he could reset the computer. The flight to Sitka was only thirty-five minutes long. My thinking was that if we left by 3:30 I would have enough time to reach Sitka, take a taxi to the National Historic Site, get my Park Service Passport book stamped, return to the airport, and make the 5:15 return to Juneau. After 3:30, though, I would be the owner of a wasted, non-refundable ticket.

At 2:50 I was starting to get nervous but at 3:00 the wind suddenly died. At 2:50 we had a 40-knot wind and at 3:00 there was a gentle breeze. Alaska Airlines hurriedly re-boarded the flight, we backed away from the gate, taxied into position and were airborne at 3:30, only six hours late. I followed my early contingency plan when we arrived in Sitka and returned to the airport at 4:45. My return flight to Juneau was parked at the gate. We boarded on time, lifted off a few minutes late, and arrived in Juneau at 5:55.  There wasn’t a cloud in the sky.

I drove east along Auke Bay at dawn the next morning. I was searching for two species of birds that I had not seen on my Alaska list yet. Several miles west of the airport I found a Black Bear sitting on its haunches in the right-of-way watching cars go by. I pulled to the side and watched the bear watching cars. Like a dog waiting for the next car to chase, the Black Bear sat and waited. He would hear an approaching car and look in its direction. His head would follow the movement from left to right and right to left. He sat there for fifteen minutes watching cars. Tiring of watching this parade of technology speed by him, he stood up, shook himself, and disappeared into the forest.

A large Wildlife Management Area abuts Auke Bay near the end of the road. Extensive mudflats here looked like the perfect place to search for any late migrating shorebirds. As I passed my binoculars over the flats and the edge of the water, I saw a Harbor Seal leap out of the water like a porpoise riding the bow wake. Several more seals joined the first one. I had never seen this behavior in seals before so I kept watching. Suddenly the water where the seals had been began to boil like a geyser ready to explode and from this boiling water I saw a huge black object erupt. Two more huge black objects erupted behind the first one. The huge black objects had a trailing patch of white down most of their left side.

Finally, after searching so many places for so many years, I was looking at three Orcas. The seals had been leaping from the water trying to avoid the certain death below. One seal wasn’t so lucky. It was last seen in the mouth of an Orca. The huge cetacean grasped it in its mouth, twisted his head from side to side, and then dove. The two other whales followed it to the depths.

I had come within one mile of a pod of Orca on a trip to Kenai Fjords National Park near Seward one summer. The other boat had them playing in the bow wake, but the boat I was on didn’t get there in time. Returning to Seward a few years later after a meeting in Wasilla, I took another trip on Resurrection Bay at Seward specifically to see an Orca. The boat captain served us an incredible spinach quiche but he didn’t find us a whale. I had searched Puget Sound in Washington several times and never saw an Orca in an area reputed to be a “sure” place to see them. When living in Ventura, California, I made twice-monthly crossings of the Santa Barbara Channel to search for Orcas. I saw Blue Whales and Gray Whales in Channel Islands National Park but I never saw an Orca. I was beginning to think the only Orca on earth was freed in a movie. The summer before my trip to Juneau, my oldest daughter Jennifer had talked her way onto a boat trip on Resurrection Bay in Seward. When I asked her about the trip, she told me about the pod of Orcas that stayed with her boat for fifteen minutes. Everyone I know had seen an Orca. I had tried maybe fifty times and never saw one. Today, without looking, I saw three.

I have now been to Juneau seven times. The only time I have seen the sun at Juneau was after the plane I was on broke through the clouds at 20,000 feet.  On a positive note, I have seen Orca every time I have been there.

 

Monday, May 13, 2024

Black-eyed Peas for Lunch

This story unfolded 40 years ago today in a South Alabama truck stop.

Spend the first 25 winters of your life in northern Wisconsin and you quickly acquire a fantasy-filled lust for anywhere south of the frost line. Add to your total six more winters in North Dakota and soon despite being an atheist you begin to believe that if there is a heaven its somewhere along the Gulf Coast of the United States. Sitting in a bare-walled one-bedroom post-divorce apartment in Jamestown North Dakota one December night I watched the latest in a seemingly endless parade of blizzards blow through town on what local meteorologists called an “Alberta Clipper.” A clipper is just that – a fast moving system of fast-moving wind and fast-moving snow and quickly plummeting frigid temperatures that were probably in Alberta an hour earlier. 

As the night dragged on and the snow blew sideways I watched a news story about the United States invading the tiny island of Grenada in the southern Caribbean. All the video showed was palm trees and tropical beaches and tropical heat and most especially not one scintilla of a smidgen of snow. I looked out my living room window and saw leaf-less aspen trees and Arctic wind and snow drifts and I knew that something had to change and it had to change before another Alberta Clipper glued me to my apartment for another excruciating year.

That change came several months later when I was selected for a position in Athens Georgia on the campus of the venerable University of Georgia. I had several misgivings about living in Georgia and they all centered on the fact that people there are still upset that Civil War U.S. Army General William Tecumseh Sherman turned Atlanta into a bonfire as he rode through town on his way to Savannah. Still, despite its societal shortcomings Georgia was much warmer than Jamestown, North Dakota. I hurriedly and excitedly accepted the position.

The research I was expected to conduct would begin in Michigan in June and I arrived in Athens in early May and for a month I had little to do but open my pores and let in the warmth. My supervisor, a man named Don who grew up in North Louisiana and said that squirrel brain was his most favorite meal as a child, was conducting a research project on Yazoo National Wildlife Refuge in Mississippi and he asked me to join him for a trip to the Delta. Having never seen Alabama (through which we would have to travel) or Mississippi I quickly accepted Don’s offer.

Don had received his PhD from the University of Arkansas and was as fervent a fan of the Razorbacks as I am of the Wisconsin Badgers. I first noticed this as we drove into Greenville, Mississippi on the banks of the Mississippi River and saw a sign for the bridge to Arkansas. Don saw the word “Arkansas” and broke into a perfect “Woooooo-Pig-Sooooooie” chant. Personally, I prefer the more civilized “Fuck ‘em Bucky” chant of the University of Wisconsin but that is just me. Don and I spent four days in and on Yazoo National Wildlife Refuge collecting bird eggs for pesticide analysis and then began the long trek back east to Athens.

The University of Wisconsin's very own badger, Bucky!

On our return we traversed the center of Mississippi and intersected Interstate 20 near Jackson.  We then followed it east and crossed the border into Alabama at about noon just in time for lunch at Billy Bob’s Bar-b-Que and Bait Shop at Exit 5 near Cuba, Alabama. That is not the name of the place but it should be. Don was attracted to Billy Bob’s because a freeway billboard announced a “down-home southern buffet lunch” at Billy Bob’s every day but Sunday. Don, in his perfect Southernese accent pronounced “buffet” as “buff-aaay.”  It was imperative that we stopped for lunch here because as the billboard said in a small reminder at its bottom, it was closed on Sunday’s because “the Lord wants us to rest and he wants y’all to rest too.” 

Billy Bob’s had a huge spread of food laid out and being a truck stop the restaurant lacked any semblance of ambiance. Its walls were bare of any artwork except pictures of Peterbilt trucks (one sign said “Old truckers never die. They just get a new Peterbilt”), the stench of diesel fumes was everywhere and Willie Nelson crooned loudly and hoarsely through speakers that must have been placed every eight inches along every wall.   This certainly was not the restaurant in the Plaza Hotel in New York City. In fact, it wasn’t even the Country Kitchen in Grand Island, Nebraska. It was Billy Bob’s and there was no denying that fact.

Before this trip, my total experience with eating southern food had been restricted to two incidents that are indelibly etched in my brain. The first was my only-ever meal of biscuits and gravy consumed in a truck stop restaurant near Paducah, Kentucky. The name on the menu sounded inviting and given that almost everyone anywhere south of Indianapolis eats biscuits like they are popcorn, I had to try it. What the waitress placed in front of me when my meal arrived reminded me more of what my dog had thrown up than it did any culinary delight of southern travel. Reluctantly but bravely, I ate the biscuits and gravy and just like after your first-time having sex, when the meal was over I wondered what all the excitement was about. The meal stuck with me literally and figuratively and now 40 years later I can still taste it. 

My other southern culinary delight was grits (or “greeutz” in perfectly spoken Southernese) that crossed my palate in a restaurant at Oden’s Dock on the Outer Banks of North Carolina a year after my first and only bout of dog biscuits and gravy. At least with enough butter and pepper grits were bearable and they didn’t slide down like dog vomit.

The lunch buffet at Billy Bob’s contained no biscuits and gravy because, mercifully, we were there after breakfast time but there was a huge crock pot full of grits. Along with them was every southern food imaginable. One container held okra and another collard greens. Next to it was turnip greens and there was a huge vat of green beans complete with the little hunks of ham that make it southern. There was also cauliflower and mustard greens and poke (not polk!) salad. There was country ham (someday I want someone to explain the difference between country ham and city ham because it all looks the same) and hush puppies and succotash and boiled potatoes (“balled ‘taters” in perfect Southernese) and sweet taters and pimento cheese and a strange kind of bean with a black spot on it. Over on the meat table was more ham and more chicken and pulled pork and beef steak and shrimp and oysters and something that was passed off as jambalaya and almost everything was fried.  And it wasn’t simply fried it was southern fried.

Don returned to the table first with a plate filled with a sampling of almost everything that Billy Bob offered. His plate contained those curious beans with the black thing on them that I had never seen before so I asked Don what they were.

“What? These,” Don barked when I asked, “What are those funny looking beans you’re eating?”

“These,” Don began, “are black-eyed peas. Haven’t you ever eaten black-eyed peas before?”

When I admitted that I had never eaten let alone seen black-eyed peas Don motioned for the waitress to approach our table. When he did all of the eyes on the 100 other faces eating the buff-aaaay lunch at Billy Bob’s turned to listen. “Ma’am,” Don began in his finest Southernese, “This god-damned Yankee sitting here has never had black-eyed peas. Can you believe that ma’am?”

The waitress Bonnie, complete with a bouffant hair do, had a shocked look on her face as she turned to me and drawled “is that right?” (Only in Bonnie-speak it sounded like she said a long drawn-out “riot”). Admitting my transgression Bonnie looked at me with the same level of shock and disgust as the 100 other sets of eyes in the place each of which now knew that a black-eyed pea virgin Yankee was in their midst.

Don turned to the still-shocked Bonnie and drawled, “Ma’am would y’all fix him a mess of those mighty fine black-eyed peas, please?”

Bonnie turned to me and asked “Do y’all want corn bread with your black-eyed peas?”

Not knowing the proper etiquette of black-eyed pea consumption in Sumter County, Alabama, I replied, sheepishly, “Are you supposed to eat corn bread with black-eyed peas?”

Bonnie, now on the verge of cardiac arrest, bellowed out “of COURSE you eat corn bread with black-eyed peas!”  I could tell she wanted to add “you ignorant god-damned Yankee,” however her proper southern upbringing would not allow it.

I timidly dug into the black-eyed peas and washed them down with fresh corn bread as Bonnie stood over me, right hand on her right hip, with 100 nearby customers shaking their heads in disbelief that a Yankee among them never had black-eyed peas. The other patrons kept shoveling in fried everything as I found myself wanting nothing but black-eyed peas and corn bread. In fact, that meal was so good I had seconds and peas and corn bread was all I had for lunch. Black-eyed peas and corn bread are now my most favorite southern food.

My guess is that if I ever returned to Billy Bob’s Bar-b-Que and Bait shop at Exit 5 on Interstate 20 in Sumter County Alabama, the patrons there still tell the story of the day Bonnie had to teach a god-damned Yankee about proper southern food.


Tuesday, April 30, 2024

Chasing Rare Birds and Other Stories

 

My first long-distance chase for a rare bird was a 48 hour one-way marathon by car and train from Jamestown, North Dakota to Churchill, Manitoba on Hudson's Bay. Our quest was the first pair of Ross's Gulls found nesting outside of the high Arctic. One hour after stepping off the train we were looking at this spectacular gull. Photo by  Shiloh Schulte


"If you ever wonder why we ride the carousel, 
We do it for the stories we can tell." ... Jimmy Buffett

Birdwatching (birding) is a multi-billion-dollar industry in the United States. All those billions of dollars are pumped into the economy from the purchase of bird identification guides, bird finding guides, binoculars, spotting scopes, ridiculous clothing like funky hats and vests, and other necessities. I hope the calculation of economic impact also includes airfare, rental cars, hotels, and food while traveling especially when a rare bird has been seen on the other side of the continent. If these categories are not included in the economic impact analysis they should be!

Long ago in birding history (I’m talking about the 1970s) news of a rare bird was painstakingly difficult to find. Many local or regional bird groups maintained weekly telephone recording updates of rare birds on a weekly updated message. Although useful and helpful, these phone updates were not in real time. Let’s say a rare bird alert was changed on Monday and a rare bird showed up on Tuesday. Unless you had Superman’s eyes you wouldn’t find out about the bird for 6 long days and it may very well have departed before the next update.

Two friends of mine, one from Norfolk, Virginia, the other from the Maryland suburbs of Washington DC discovered a way to cope with last minute sightings of rare birds. In those days, when there were no penalties for cancelling flights, they booked flights almost every Friday to San Francisco, Los Angeles, Tucson, Houston, and Miami. Then they waited through the week to find out if any rarities had been discovered. If a rarity was found in Southern California, then on Friday night these two flew to Los Angeles and spent the weekend looking for the bird. If no rarities were discovered during the week, they cancelled their reservations and waited for something exciting the next weekend.

Later, an industrious man in North Carolina developed NARBA – the North American Rare Bird Alert. This subscription service allowed you to call a phone number and receive rare bird updates almost in real time. I recall several times checking the alert in the morning then calling back in the afternoon only to hear that a newly reported bird had been added to the alert since my morning call. NARBA revolutionized the art of chasing birds.

In contemporary society the distribution of rare bird information is almost instantaneous. Platforms like Twitter (screw Elon Musk – I refuse to call it “X”), Facebook Email, and others now allow birders to find a rare bird and instantaneously distribute information about its location. Many times, these updates are accompanied by digital images of the bird confirming the identification. In 2010 I did a “Big Year” in Florida to see how many species I could find inside the boundaries of the state from January 1 to December 31. Courtesy of Facebook, one day I learned about a Red-legged Thrush in Palm Beach County. This West Indies endemic had never before been seen in North America so this was major news. Learning about the bird I dropped everything and drove three hours across the state to the birds location where I easily found the Red-legged Thrush. The next day the bird was gone never to be seen again. Had it not been for electronic alerts I would never have participated in the first record of this species in North America.

The Chase

All hell breaks loose when a rare bird is discovered. Airline websites are scoured for the cheapest fare to the airport closest to the bird. Rental car reservations are made, hotels booked, and local contacts are contacted. Then you board a plane and fret for an hour to six hours as you speed along at 40,000 feet worried with the passage of each mile that the bird departed before your arrival. All manner of scenarios run through your mind as the plane begins its descent. Safely on the ground you grab a rental car, race to the bird’s location and if you believe in the supernatural you pray that it has not departed.

I was sitting in my office space in the United States Embassy in Nassau, Bahamas, when I learned about a Bahama Mockingbird near Del Ray Beach in south Florida. I had seen gobs of Bahama Mockingbirds while traveling throughout the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos Islands that winter but I had never seen a Bahama Mockingbird in North America. I was fortunate that the bird was discovered on my last day in Nassau so I booked a flight to Fort Lauderdale for that afternoon. The following morning, I was at the house in Del Ray where the bird had been found. So, also, was maybe 50 other bird watchers. We sat there all day and the Bahama Mockingbird never appeared.

That same evening, I flew from Fort Lauderdale to San Antonio, Texas, for a previously planned trip into the Texas Hill Country. While we sat in the yard in Del Ray Beach, someone found a Garganey, a Eurasian duck related to the Blue-winged Teal, on a wetland south of Corpus Christi. Quickly changing plans, I drove down to the coast and was parked on the road by the Garganey wetland at dawn the next morning. I sat there all day and the duck never appeared. In late afternoon, an attorney from Denver showed up at the wetland. He had been one of the 50 or so people waiting for the Bahama Mockingbird the day before. Unlike me he gave it another day and the Mockingbird appeared at dawn. The attorney then flew to Corpus Christi hoping to find his second mega rarity of the day separated by 1,000 miles of airspace.

Before retirement, I did some serious chasing. Luckily, I was living in the Washington DC suburbs maybe 5 miles from National Airport (never ever call it Reagan National). There were numerous nonstops out of National each day and airfares were relatively cheap. If some rare bird showed up on the other side of the continent or closer to DC, I would book a flight, leave that evening, call in sick the next day, and chase the bird. Sometimes I scored. Many other times I returned home with nothing except more frequent flier miles. Three of my most memorable chases were a two-night trip to Alaska for Great Spotted Woodpecker, a day trip from Nebraska to San Francisco for a Brown Shrike, and a day trip in winter to Long Island for a Northern Lapwing. Those chases are described in the verbiage below.

An old friend, commenting on a recent post about birds said, “So many tales to tell from a life of chasing birds.”  His words, plus those in Jimmy Buffett’s song “Stories You Can Tell” were the spark I needed to prepare this blog post. My very first chase was a four-hour drive through a Wisconsin snowstorm in 1972 hoping to find a Varied Thrush. My most recent chase was a Red-flanked Bluetail in New Jersey. There have been hundreds of chases between them. Below I describe 30 of the more memorable ones. These birds are each Category 4 or Category 5 according to the American Birding Association ranking of rarity.  These two categories include the rarest of birds in the ABA area.

Some Birds Worth Chasing

Garganey

Not long after missing the Garganey on a wetland near Corpus Christi, I learned about another one in the desert of Arizona. Quickly booking a flight to Tucson I drove to the appropriately named “Sweetwater” sewage treatment plant and found the Garganey with a large flock of closely related Cinnamon Teal. Garganey remains a rarity in North America and isn’t all that numerous in its native Europe and Asia. The Arizona bird was the only one I have ever seen anywhere in North America although I saw one on Oahu, Hawaii where it was really out of place!

Photo by David Radcliffe

Key West Quail-Dove

Mark Oberle called me in Nebraska with the exciting news that a Key West Quail-Dove, endemic to the West Indies, had been found on Vaca Key near Marathon in the Florida Keys. Mark was bound for the airport in Atlanta after he hung up the phone and told me he had reserved a room at a bed and breakfast in Marathon. I was welcome to stay with him if I could make it. A few hours later I landed in Miami where I caught a flight on Provincetown-Boston Airlines to Marathon. The aircraft was an ancient DC-3. Flying through the Florida night while seated by the window over the wing I noticed a steady stream of sparks blasting out of the engine. A bit alarmed I told the pilot about it after we landed. He told me that the time to worry on a DC-3 is when there aren’t any sparks flying out of the engine.

Early the next morning Mark and I joined a large contingent of bird watchers lining the county highway looking for the elusive skulking denizen of the underbrush of the West Indies. Eventually one of the others found the bird, announced it to the assembled masses, and we all were able to watch it slowly foraging on the forest floor. My first Key West Quail-Dove was at Nassau in the Bahamas in 1984. Since then, I have found it on six islands in the Bahamas, in Cuba and in the Dominican Republic. The Florida Keys bird has been the only one I have seen in North America.

Photo by Christoph Morning

Northern Lapwing

Quite common and widespread in Europe, this cousin of the Killdeer is a mega-rarity in North America. One shows up on this side of the Pond about every five years. On a cold for Washington DC February morning word reached me that a Northern Lapwing had been found and was easily seen about an hour east of New York City on Long Island. American Airlines had reasonably priced flights from Washington National airport to JFK airport in New York. There, securing my rental car the next morning I headed east in the deliriously heavy commuter traffic until I found the road leading to the Lapwing. This was before GPS was standard on cell phones so navigation was by written description and a map. The Lapwing was vigorously foraging just a few meters from the road when I arrived and everyone enjoyed extended and convincing views of the bird. Everyone, that is, except the numbskull who argued unconvincingly that the Lapwing was in fact a Sandhill Crane. It wasn’t until someone showed him an image of a Northern Lapwing next to an image of a Sandhill Crane that he agreed on the species identity. Not everyone on a bird chase has the same skill level!


Photo 
© Abhishek Das

European Golden-Plover

Delaware may be tiny in geographic area but it is a giant when it comes to attracting rare birds. We can thank Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge and the abundance of bird watchers who frequent it for so many records of species rare in North America like European Golden-Plover.

I had flown from southern California to Philadelphia to chase a White-winged Tern that had been found at Bombay Hook. Standing on the main refuge road waiting for the White-winged Tern to appear, a flock of shorebirds flew in and settled on an exposed mudflat. The shorebirds were quite vocal and one person claimed to have heard the distinctive and loud single note call of European Golden-Plover. Search for the tern quickly vanished as everyone put their spotting scopes on the shorebirds and found the wayward plover. Never having seen a European Golden-Plover before I waited for someone who knew the species to identify it. As I waited I noticed several plumage characteristics that were not carried by either American Golden-Plover or Pacific Golden-Plover. I told myself “I bet that’s the bird” and it was.

Photo by Ian Davies

Eurasian Dotterel

It is difficult to think of a shorebird as being “pretty” but the Eurasian Dotterel really is. Another ornithologist and I had been sent by helicopter 110 miles north of Nome, Alaska, and dropped off on the tundra to do research on Bristle-thighed Curlew. The plan was to spend five days at the first location then hook up with the helicopter and be moved to another location where we would spend five more days looking for the elusive curlew. Not long after setting up our tent home for the next five days, a curiously squat-looking shorebird landed on the tundra maybe 20 meters from us. The bird began giving a call-note that reminded me of some passerines but it was a call I had never heard before. Putting my binoculars on it, the bird was easily identified as Eurasian Dotterel. Five years later I saw one in Marin County, California not far from San Francisco. Despite being widespread in western Europe and patchily distributed in Arctic Russia, these are the only Eurasian Dotterel I have ever seen.

Photo by Ian Davies

Little Curlew

A Berylline Hummingbird had appeared in southeast Arizona and I flew to Tucson to begin my search for the bird. While in Arizona word reached me that a Little Curlew, the smallest of the curlew’s, and a species from East Asia, had been found in San Luis Obispo County, California not far from Santa Barbara. Nonstop flights from Tucson to Santa Barbara did not exist but flights to Los Angeles were numerous. I was on the first one I could find after observing the wayward hummingbird. As with so many chases of mega rarities one of the simplest navigational landmarks to the bird is a group of people with binoculars swinging from their necks, all pointing in the same direction. So, it was with the Little Curlew in California. Five years later, while at Gambell on Saint Lawrence Island in the Bering Sea, within sight of Russia, a Little Curlew descended through the clouds and landed in front of a flock of stunned bird watchers. The Gambell bird and the one in California are the only Little Curlew I have ever seen.

Photo by James Kennerley

Eurasian Curlew

A highly unusual (for North America) Eurasian Curlew showed up on Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge, an island off the southern “elbow” of Cape Cod in Massachusetts. I was on Cape Cod for a work-related meeting that lost all importance when word of the curlew arrived. Access to Monomoy is restricted because of its refuge status. About the only way to approach it is by boat and I had none. I didn’t feel confident in those days renting a boat and traversing even a small bit of open ocean to reach the island. Instead, I visited Chatham airport and found a pilot willing to fly me slowly over the beach of the island looking for the bird. Most refuges in the system restrict air traffic to a flight level of 500 feet or greater. This pilot broke the rules, dropped us down to 100 feet as we slowly circled the island. It didn’t take long to find the curlew because of its size and its giant scythe-like bill.

Photo by Kai Pflug

Spotted Redshank

A Spotted Redshank was observed in Jefferson County of eastern Kansas while I was in Alaska for a meeting. Quite by accident my return flight to Nebraska made a connection in Kansas City. There I claimed I had missed my connection to Grand Island and had to wait a day for another flight. Instead, I dashed over the state line and found the species that was much more likely in Alaska where I had just been. It was foraging in a prairie wetland with Dickcissels singing all around it.

Photo by Luka Hercigonja

Long-billed Murrelet

The startling find of a Long-billed Murrelet from Asia, swimming around among the barges on the Ohio River at Louisville, Kentucky, was too tempting to pass over. I called in sick to work, caught an early morning nonstop from Washington National Airport to Louisville where I found the bird in late afternoon energizing itself in the warm November sun.

Photo by Todd McGrath

White-winged Tern

Without doubt this was and remains my most frustrating chase bird. I made one unsuccessful attempt for this tern in Quebec, once in New Jersey and twice in Delaware before I finally saw this Western Palearctic species. I found it on the same trip where I saw the European Golden-Plover. Once the identity of the shorebird was confirmed we returned to searching for the White-winged Tern. Eventually it showed up on Shearness Pool completing  several slow laps around the wetland's edge before settling down in some emergent vegetation for the night.

Photo by Ian Davies

Roadside Hawk

Philip Olsen and I were on a multi-species chase to the Lower Rio Grande Valley where we spent part of one day traversing Bensten-Rio Grande State Park searching for a Blue Bunting. On one of the laps on the wildlife drive we saw a medium-sized Buteo type hawk land in a tree. Putting binoculars on it I said to Phil, “Well it’s not a Broad-winged Hawk but I certainly don’t know what it is!”  Some time with the Peterson Mexico bird guide helped us pin down the identification as Roadside Hawk. Since this initial sighting I have seen hundreds if not thousands of Roadside Hawks from Mexico down to South America, however the Bensten-Rio Grande bird is the only one I’ve seen in the ABA area.

Photo by Bradley Hacker

Great Spotted Woodpecker

This widespread Eurasian woodpecker had been seen eight times in the largely inaccessible Aleutian Islands before one was finally seen on the mainland. When one showed up it did so in February at a bird feeder near Talkeetna, Alaska, about two hours north of Anchorage. Hearing about the bird on Thursday I booked a roundtrip from Washington National to Anchorage with a connection in Minneapolis. I arrived late on Friday night in Anchorage and stayed at the Super 8 motel that has since been condemned. Saturday morning, I drove to Talkeetna where a large group of people stood in the kitchen of the family hosting the woodpecker. I watched it for an hour, and began my return to Anchorage about 11 a.m. Back at the airport about 1 pm I had nothing to do other than look at snow.  I noticed on the Alaska Airlines departure board that they had a flight leaving for Bethel, a Yupik village on the west coast of Alaska. I needed the Bethel airport for my airport list plus the village is inside the boundary of Yukon Delta National Wildlife Refuge, another missing checkmark on my numerous lists. I bought a ticket to Bethel with a return flight on the same plane an hour later. In Anchorage I caught a 9:00 pm departure for Minneapolis, connected there early on Sunday morning and was home in the DC suburbs by noon. Without doubt this chase holds the record for my longest distance chasing a bird in North America.

Photo by Charles Thomas

Red-footed Falcon

The spectacular sighting of this Red-footed Falcon on Martha’s Vineyard had the internet rare bird alerts and chat rooms on fire in August 2004. My first attempt was unsuccessful and I returned to Washington DC.  Some in the group said the bird had departed but on my return home I learned that it had again been found. I was back on the Vineyard the next afternoon where I easily found it because of all the birders pointing in the same direction over an open field. 

Photo by Tom Heijnen

Variegated Flycatcher

I was still in graduate school when a Variegated Flycatcher was found at Biddeford Pond in southern Maine. A story about the sighting in American Birds was all the encouragement I needed to begin collecting information on this funky-looking flycatcher from South America. Following that introduction I have seen Variegated Flycatcher hundreds of times in South America but no opportunity to chase it occurred in North America until 2015 when one was found in a county park in Fort Lauderdale. We were scheduled to depart Fort Lauderdale on a short 7-day cruise to the West Indies but not until 5:00 p.m. We drove to Fort Lauderdale the night before, stayed in a hotel, and were in the park shortly after dawn. So too were about 30 other people who already had the bird located. This was one of my easiest-ever chases.

Photo by Lorrie Lowrie

Brown Shrike

Although there had been several records of Brown Shrike for North America they all had been in the western Aleutian Islands of Alaska. That was until one showed up on Point Reyes in Marin County, about an hour north of San Francisco. Airfare from Lincoln, Nebraska (the nearest airport near my home town served by United Airlines) to San Francisco was ridiculously expensive on short notice but a roundtrip ticket was available for 25,000 frequent flier miles if I made the trip in one day! I left Lincoln at 6:00 a.m. and made a quick connection at venerable old Stapleton airport in Denver, arriving in San Francisco at 9:00 a.m. There I rented a car and took off for Marin. The bird was easily found exactly where the directions said it would be. I watched it 10 minutes then raced back to San Francisco. From there I connected in Denver to the last flight of the day to Lincoln, arriving back in the Cornhusker State at midnight. I made the roundtrip to the west coast in a day and saw a memorable rare bird in the process.

Photo by Ayuwat Jearwattanakanok

Brown Jay

The loud and obnoxious Brown Jay, a nearly crow-sized relative of the Blue Jay, was fairly regular in the Lower Rio Grande Valley of Texas in the 1970s. It was regular enough that Jim Lane wrote in his first bird finding guide to the valley that the bird could be found fairly easily on a ranch west of McAllen. On arrival at the ranch, Lane said to “raise your binoculars so the man sitting at the front porch can see them, say “Pajaros,” pay him $1.00 and walk down to the Rio Grande". By the 1980s Brown Jay had become increasingly scarce along the Rio Grande but the Pajaro ranch was still the most likely place to find one. In the valley chasing another species I decided to try for the Jay. I said “Pajaros” (the Spanish word for bird) to the man (It was the first Spanish word I ever spoke) I handed him $1.00 then followed the trail to the river where I was overwhelmed by the heat. Leaving my car keys and wallet under a bush along the bank, I walked out into the cooling waters of the Rio Grande holding my binoculars over my head. Near the middle of the river with water up to my neck I heard the distinctive “kleer, kleer, kleer” call of a Brown Jay. This, the first bird species I ever recorded in Mexico, was sitting with three of its own kind in a tree on the Mexican side of the river. Eventually the four of them flew across the river, landed in Texas, and made a loud tick sound on my ABA area life list. Since then, Brown Jay has become increasingly infrequent in the Lower Rio Grande Valley although they are still common in Mexico. I’m glad I saw it when I did because now to chase one, you’d have to deal with tRump-loving “patriots” and other vigilantes trying to keep asylum seekers out of legally entering the country. That and steroid soaked Texas Department of Public Safety agents, nearly as well armed as the vigilante tRump supporters, looking to fulfill Governor Abbott’s decree to throw the Constitution in the garbage.


Photo by Joel Trick

Eurasian Jackdaw

A sizeable group of Eurasian Jackdaws, a crow-like European bird, showed up on the grounds of a prison in New Jersey. At almost the same time Jackdaw was also reported on Nantucket Island off the coast of Massachusetts. Bob Ake and I were in New England chasing after seabirds when we learned about the nearby Jackdaw. Our first attempt was after taking a ferry from Hyannis to Nantucket then walking the beach where the bird had been seen. We gave up about sunset and returned to the mainland. There I decided I wanted to chase the bird again and called Gull Air to book a flight the next morning because I didn’t want to waste time on a ferry. When you think of Gull Air think of the old television series “Wings” – same type of plane and same airport. I searched for several hours seeing lots of gulls and loons but no Jackdaw. I took a break for lunch and when I returned to the beach a group of birders from Washington DC had found the bird roosting in the sand dunes along the shore. I am not aware of any other Jackdaw being found in North America since the New Jersey and Nantucket birds.

Photo by Ryan Schain

Gray Silky-flycatcher

A Fork-tailed Flycatcher was found on Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge in South Texas. Having failed to find it on several other chases along the East Coast I booked a flight to Harlingen hoping to finally score. While looking at the flycatcher, one of the assembled masses asked me “Have you seen the Silky-flycatcher”? This was the first time I had heard of it. With directions written down I had little trouble finding this denizen of the Mexican mountains sitting in a small tree on the blazing hot coastal plain of South Texas. Considerable conjecture erupted among the so-called experts who had not seen the bird regarding its provenance. Certainly, a mountain bird on the Texas coastal plain had to be an escaped bird they said. Apparently enough naysayers saw the bird to be convinced it was not an escapee and the Texas Ornithological Society accepted the sighting. Since then, there has been only one other report from north of the border – a single bird near El Paso, Texas, several years later.

Photo by Juan Miguel Artigas Azas

Bahama Mockingbird

The Bahama Mockingbird in Del Ray Beach. Florida, mentioned in the introduction to this story, was my first attempt to get the species for my ABA list and I failed. This failure occurred in 1985. It wasn’t until 1992 when I was on a detail to the Florida Keys National Wildlife Refuges that I had another chance. This time I was lucky. The bird was found in a city park in Key West not far from the ocean. It was easily found and for much of the rest of the summer each time I was in Key West (about every other day) I would check on the bird and report its status to the North American Rare Bird Alert. Since then, Bahama Mockingbird has occurred almost yearly in Florida and always as single birds. One was found as far north as Tampa Bay.

Photo by Arturo Kirkconnell Jr

Dusky Thrush

I was in Portland Oregon interviewing for a position in Ventura, California, when I learned about a Dusky Thrush near Vancouver, British Columbia. To my knowledge this was the first observation of Dusky Thrush in North America away from Alaska. Plus, it was only a few hours up the road and the Portland office had paid for my fully-refundable and changeable ticket back to Grand Island, Nebraska. Alaska Airlines deposited me in Bellingham, Washington early the next frigid morning. There I rented a car, cleared Canadian customs (without a passport in those days!) and quickly found the house where the thrush was putting on a show. Once I found the Fern Ridge neighborhood all I had to do was look for a large congregation of cars to know I had found the correct home. There I stood in the biting cold waiting for the thrush to arrive. The homeowner felt sorry for us and invited us in for coffee and warmth. Eventually the thrush showed up, everyone made a check mark on their various lists and we all departed for home.

Photo by Christoph Moning

Fieldfare

A Fieldfare, a Eurasian cousin of the American Robin, was found in late November not far from Grand Marais, Minnesota, along the North Shore of Lake Superior. For it I flew from Nebraska to Duluth, Minnesota, rented a car and raced up Minnesota Highway 61 two hours to just outside Grand Marais. There in the late November afternoon sun I found a large group of birdwatchers standing by the side of the highway pointing into the forest. Exiting my car at 4:00 p.m., I followed the pointing fingers and saw the Fieldfare in a spruce tree. My view was brief but convincing. Sunset was about 4:15 p.m. and I planned to return in the morning the next day for a hopefully longer and more satisfying view. The same group of birdwatchers from yesterday afternoon was back at the spot. We stayed there all day. The Fieldfare was never seen again.

Photo by   Ivan Sjögren

Redwing

I traveled to Iceland with the most recent mistake in my life at the time. We flew to Reykjavik on an overnight flight and on arrival she crawled in bed to get much needed sleep. Excited about being in a new country and continent, I went outside to look for birds. My very first entry on my Europe bird list was a stunningly attractive Redwing skulking in some bushes near the hotel entrance. I saw more Redwing on subsequent trips to England, Scotland and France but didn’t have an opportunity for North America until one was found in northeastern New Brunswick. The nearest airport I could afford to fly to was Halifax, Nova Scotia, a scenic five-hour drive from the Redwing. Being a thrush it was not surprising that it was a bit more difficult to find than most other chases. I spent two full days looking for it and finally scored. So far it’s my only North America observation.

Photo by Gina Sheridan

Siberian Accentor

A Siberian Accentor was found near Sun Valley, Idaho, while I was “nearby” in Tucson, Arizona for a meeting. Usually found in North America only in Alaska, I quickly decided it would be much cheaper to Sun Valley than to buy a ticket to Siberia. As much as I despise Delta Airlines they had the cheapest short-notice fare from Tucson to Sun Valley. I was northbound from the desert at 7:00 a.m. the next morning. Finding the bird was relatively easy, again using the method of looking for a congregation of bird watchers. So too was the case with the Idaho accentor. Despite having traveled extensively in eastern Asia where it occurs most frequently, this was the only Siberian Accentor I have seen.

Photo by  Greg Scyphers

Common Chaffinch

If it sounds by now that I took advantage of my employment with the Federal government to score a lot of life birds you are correct. I did. Luckily, Federal government rules allowed travelers to take time off while on official duty. I took advantage of that rule when I was in Bangor, Maine for a meeting with the US Air Force. While I was there, a Common Chaffinch from Europe was found in a cemetery near downtown Halifax, Nova Scotia.

The distance from Bangor to Halifax looked close on a map. In reality it was 426 miles (685 kilometers) one way. Driving at a normal speed the bird in Halifax was about 10 hours away from me when I stepped off the plane in Bangor. I was young, foolish, and had only been to Nova Scotia once before – the ferry terminal in Digby. It seemed logical to chase after this Chaffinch since I was relatively close.

The bird was much farther away than I originally calculated especially when I left Bangor airport at 3:00 pm eastern time. Sunset came around 4:00 pm at this northeasterly location, and Halifax was one hour ahead of Maine. It’s much farther from the Bangor Maine airport to Halifax Nova Scotia than the map suggests. That's especially true in the middle of the night in the middle of December.

I finally arrived in Halifax at 3:30 a.m. Nova Scotia time. I had considered stopping in Truro, Nova Scotia and crashing in a hotel but continued on since coffee was keeping me fortified and the bird was closer with each passing mile. Finding the cemetery in the middle of the night (it was the one where many victims of the sinking of the Titanic were buried) I parked under a tree, curled up in the backseat, and slept a fitful sleep.

About 8:00 a.m. there was a loud banging on my window. Each window was covered with frost from my breath against the frozen night and I expected the Royal Canadian Mounted Police to be checking out this strange person with Maine license plates parked overnight in a cemetery. However, it wasn’t the Mounties. A group of local bird watchers had descended on the cemetery to look for the Chaffinch. One of them opened my door and asked if I was ok. Feeling a bit churlish I said I had traveled there to look for the Chaffinch. The man smiled, pointed straight up from my car, and said “Check here friend!”

I had parked directly beneath the tree that the Chaffinch chose to roost in for the night. From the time I woke up until I had my new bird probably took 20 seconds. I wish all bird chases were that easy.

Photo by Santiago Caballero Carrera 

Eurasian Bullfinch

I have seen some beautiful birds in my travels. A Resplendent Quetzal in Costa Rica. A Bornean Tree-pie in Malaysian Borneo. A stunning Crab Plover in the United Arab Emirates. A Crested Barbet in South Africa. They have all been beautiful but none has been as striking as Eurasian Bullfinch. I first saw it in 1989. That comment is still valid today.

My flight from Nome, Alaska, arrived at Gambell on St. Lawrence Island almost on time which for western Alaska is a miracle in itself. Walking from the landing strip (it’s not really an airport) to the house rented for us, I found a group of bird watchers including Dwight Lee in what’s called the “West Bone Yard.”  I asked Dwight what everyone was looking at. He just pointed at eye level and said “Look!”  Pointing my binoculars in the direction everyone else was pointing I remember gasping when this brilliantly colored male Eurasian Bullfinch turned to face us. My first thought when I saw it was that whomever invented the color salmon did so after looking at a Eurasian Bullfinch. This was life bird #700 for the ABA area, a milestone level most bird watchers sought until Hawaii was added to the counting area. I have seen Eurasian Bullfinch in almost every European country I have visited (26 of them) and each time they take my breath away just like the Gambell bird did.

Photo by Ivan Sjögren

Little Bunting

Far from as colorful and gawdy as the Eurasian Bullfinch, the Little Bunting was a major find. One of the few North American records at the time away from Alaska, a Little Bunting was found at Cabrillo National Monument near the harbor entrance in San Diego. I was in Denver for the start of a yearlong training program when I found out about the bird. We put in long hours during the week and it would have been frowned on if I blew off the expensive training program to chase a bird. Instead, I booked a flight from Denver to San Diego for late on Friday night with a return on Sunday. Arising early on Saturday morning I waited for the gates of the National Monument to open and found the Little Bunting right where everyone said it would be. Rather than spend more money on a hotel, food, and a rental car, I drove to the airport. United Airlines was generous enough in those days to change my return to Denver a day early without any penalties.  I was back in the hotel the government put me up in along Union Boulevard in Denver 20 hours after I left the day before.

Photo by Ivan Davies

Golden-crowned Warbler

Jon Andrew was the manager of the Lower Rio Grande Valley National Wildlife Refuges complex when I arrived in the McAllen airport. The plan was for Jon and I to spend a few days looking for Maroon-fronted Parrot and other elusive species in the mountains of northeast Mexico. That plan changed when I walked into the refuge headquarters and Jon said, “Did you hear about the Golden-crowned Warbler?” This was the first time I had heard about it. I had seen this warbler 5 years earlier in Costa Rica. The Rio Grande bird would be new for my ABA list. I left the headquarters building and found the trail to the warbler, but didn’t find the bird before sunset. Returning the following morning at sunrise I heard the warbler singing before I saw it then coaxed it out of the undergrowth. With Golden-crowned Warbler safely on my ABA list we left for the mountains of Mexico.

Photo by Chris Wood

Blue Bunting

The subject of several chases to the Rio Grande Valley, I finally met up with this bunting that is so blue it looks almost black from a distance. Dwight Lee met me in the McAllen airport for a previously scheduled chase up the Rio Grande to near Laredo where we wanted to look for Gray-crowned Yellowthroat and what was then called White-collared Seedeater. While Dwight waited for my plane to arrive he learned of the discovery that morning of a stunning male Blue Bunting at nearby Bensten-Rio Grande State Park. Quickly changing plans, we secured our rental car and dashed up the highway to the park. There with a minimum of effort we found the bird feeder behind the pickup camper where it was seen that morning. Waiting only a few minutes the Blue Bunting arrived to the relief of all those assembled. Dwight and I then left for Laredo and hopefully two more lifers.

Photo by Shailesh Pinto

Bananaquit

If you spend much time in the Bahamas eventually you hear people talking about “de banana bird, mon.” De banana bird, mon, is the Bananaquit, a widespread and abundant bird on most of the West Indian islands south to South America. Just fifty miles west of the Bahamas, along the Florida coast, its exceedingly rare and worthy of a chase when one shows up. My North American bird was at Bill Baggs State Park on Virginia Key within sight of the skyscrapers in downtown Miami. I was there looking for a Key West Quail-Dove someone reported when a young woman walked up to me and asked, “Do you know bird sounds?”  Well, yes I do. She said, “There’s this bird over here making weird noises. It has a black back, yellow stomach, and a curved bill.” As I suspected it was a Banana bird, my first and only for North America. Before this sighting I had flown down to Miami three earlier occasions chasing a Bananaquit and returned home empty handed each time. Now I finally saw one and I wasn’t even looking for it.

Photo by Marcos Eugênio Birding Guide

Black-faced Grassquit

The first bird I added to my Bahamas list was a Black-faced Grassquit “singing” from the security fence bordering the Nassau airport. This was my first trip to the Bahamas and many birds would be new. At first they were exciting but after four days of grassquits competing with Bananaquits for the title of “Most Abundant Species” the grassquits became old and commonplace. In February 1985 I took a weekend off from bird research in the Bahamas and flew to Miami to explore Everglades National Park. By this time, I had seen more Black-faced Grassquits than I could count so I wasn’t completely surprised when I found one in the grass along the park road not far north of Flamingo. At first I thought “oh, another grassquit.”  Then it dawned on me that I was in Florida not in the Bahamas. I drove to the National Park Service station in Flamingo and told a biologist there the exciting news that I had found a Black-faced Grassquit. She said, “No you didn’t!”  Paul Lehman said the same three words when I told him I saw a Wilson’s Plover at the Point Mugu National Weapons Station near Oxnard, California. When I sent him a picture of the bird he never replied.

Rather than argue I invited the Park Service biologist to come with me and we returned to the spot where 30 minutes earlier I found the bird. Parking and exiting the car we both heard the grassquit singing its distinctive song. Then it flew up on the stem of some salt marsh vegetation where it sang loudly and displayed. The experience was almost as if the grassquit knew about the Park Service employees doubts and wanted her to be doubly sure I knew what I was talking about. Watching the bird display a few minutes the Park Service biologist said, “Well I guess you’re right.” 

Photo by  Larry Therrien

After more than 50 years chasing rare birds in North America, my ABA area (continental United States, Canada, St. Pierre et Miquelon and for some strange reason, Hawaii) list is 942 species. My original ABA list, from before Hawaii was added, is 878 species. Sadly, I don’t have another 50 years left to chase birds. Instead, I will be content with those I have seen. I will check electronic sources daily and if something good shows up I will be on the next plane out of Sarasota headed in its direction.